CEST IN THE LAND OF DARK HOURS – Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir

More than a collaboration; a piece of teamwork. More than an exercise in style; a composition by four hands, each adding its own nuances. More than an exchange; a meeting of two brands. And, once again, the challenge of accessible exclusivity: CHF 3,500, 178 pieces

Text: Press Photo: Louis Erard

The hour isn’t dark; it’s glossy. First, it captures the eye, then releases its grip for a glance at the minute and second hands: a thin hand as if taken from a fir bud that splits the black dial with its acid green tip, as if to remind you that the watch is alive and moving. Once again, this new variation on the regulator theme captures the essence of collaboration. Louis Erard X Label Noir.

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Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir

Louis Erard has been one of the Franches Montagnes region’s more maverick brands for almost 100 years. And Label Noir has been a Geneva-based atelier at the forefront of customisation for more than ten years. The meeting of these two worlds produced a spark: a green spark, like the last ray that the sun sends over the earth before hiding behind the horizon. A spark that illuminates the rich black tones that watchmaking expertise is capable of producing.

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Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir is all about depth. Emmanuel Curti, head watchmaker and founder of Label Noir, wanted to redesign the regulator in his own way of reading the time: first the hour, then the minute, then the seconds. This order of reading led to graduated finishes, from true matte to a glossy sheen. The first thing that jumps out at you is the small hour dial: the only glossy black element on the entire watch, highlighted by a thread of mirror-polished steel. The rest of the dial is in vertically brushed matte, accentuating the contrast, while the case is treated in matte black so as not to interfere with the dial.

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The strap adds a finishing touch: black Cordura woven fabric that stands out from the rest, as if adding to the play of textures and extending the range of black tones. In this design, director and artistic director of Louis Erard, Manuel Emch, found a new way of drawing the lines of collaboration. Each element in this watch leads back to the same principle: we are always stronger together. Emmanuel Curti has found a training ground in Label Noir’s style. It’s a style that’s been developed over time, through customisations for private clients and collaborations with other brands.

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A style that was already in an embryonic phase in Label Noir’s very mission: to take the concept of watchmaking to another level, by daring to add variety, matte, black, and acid colours. Without teamwork, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir wouldn’t exist. This model was built in dialogue, in a series of exchanges, over many proposals and iterations. Multiple prototypes and different versions were created. In the end, the most iconic model was chosen: the one that best reflects both worlds.

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Louis Erard’s signature components: the Excellence case, the fir-tree hands, and the regulator. And subtleties with surprising origins: the idea of green glass on the open caseback came from Louis Erard, but is so Label Noir that it was kept. Other collaborations are still to come.


Since 2011, personalisation and its many related arts have been Label Noir’s raison d’être, while respecting watchmaking history and its fundamental principles. Armed with the most prestigious skills and techniques, the brand is able to meet the wildest desires. In its wake, Label Noir leaves memorable encounters, confessions expressed through manufacturing choices, and challenges achieved, whether human or technical. The pinnacle of luxury, Label Noir transcends the extraordinary capital of watchmaking skills destined to remain secret. It breathes its profound recognition of professions where beautiful methods and materials serve to crystallise the brand’s founding values: an adventure serving a growing public of connoisseurs.

Categories: PRESS


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